2003 - Margaux, Margaux

A blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, the 2003 Chateau Margaux has a deep garnet color, with a touch of brick. It springs from the glass with surprisingly spritely notes of blackcurrant jelly, baked plums, and star anise, giving way to an undercurrent of Sichuan pepper, kirsch, unsmoked cigars, cedar, dried roses, and forest floor. The medium-bodied palate is completely filled with ripe, expressive black fruits and perfumed floral and exotic spice layers, framed by very firm, sturdy tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and earthy. "In 2003 we were tempted to correct, but we didn’t," commented current managing director Philippe Bascaules, who was working with the late managing director Paul Pontallier in 2003. "I think it is better not to help nature but to permit." This 2003 is delicious now, yet it has the stuffing to cellar for another 20+ years.

At a beautiful moment to drink, spicy, light, ethereal, red cherry, cigar box, blond tobacco, clear spice as it opens and more tannins that perhaps I expected in a 2003 as it approaches its 20 year mark. I have been surprised by a number of classified Médoc 2003s in recent months, and yet again here we see that the position along the river Garonne, with its cooling breezes, was a lucky spot to be in during the punishing summer. One of the wines of the vintage, still delivering. Paul Pontallier director.

The 2003 Château Margaux is slightly bricking on the rim, quite deep in color. The nose has retained satisfying freshness. Dusty red bricks and gravel scents infuse the mainly red fruit. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, harmonious, fresh with good tension and touches of white pepper and clove. It approaches full maturity, though this is one of the few 2003s where you can afford to wait. The late Paul Pontallier managed to conjure up a very respectable First Growth this vintage, though it is one I would be inclined to drink sooner rather than later. Tasted at the château.